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Post by Donna on Mar 5, 2017 7:19:26 GMT 10
hi tom wanting to get a greyhound ready for a race in 3 weeks for sprint races from 220 to 270 mts what would the best training method that you could give me . Ie galloping & walking . What would this be like (week1 2 gallops 1 day apart over 100mts then walk 10 mins morning/ night . Week2 3 gallops 1 day apart over 125mts for 220 mts race then 150mts for 270mts race .walk same then 3rd week no gallop just walk then 3 days before race 150mts gallop for 220race then 200mtgallop for 270mt race . Can you advice me Tom on this cheers Donna.
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Post by Tom Meulman on Mar 6, 2017 5:04:21 GMT 10
Hi Donna,
If the greyhound is an experienced racer that has just had a long spell for one reason of another, and If all you are trying to do I'd give it some very basic fitness, I can see nothing wrong with the shedule you have outlined.
I can only assume that the running being given is over a straight track with a safe surface and a safe spot to pull up, and that some sort of drag lure is being used to make sure that the runs are going to actually improve its fitness. Including a basic injury check after every third or fourth run.
If on the other hand the greyhound is a youngster that had been educated, spelled and is getting some base fitness ready for its first outing, that exercise program may provide enough fitness to help it get through its first race, but will do nothing towards making sure it's going to be competitive in a race, as that takes race practice behind a race lure with other greyhounds, and would certainly take longer than three weeks.
Again if the running exercise being provided is simply a free gallop all bets are off because some greyhounds will go down a straight as hard as possible, while others will simply have an easy gallop without any real effort. The problem also is that if all this is happening on a slipping straight very little is being done to prepare the greyhounds muscle tissue in regard to conditioning the greyhound to drive hard into a turn and to accelerate through a turn.
Cheers, Tom
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Post by Donna on Mar 6, 2017 6:30:05 GMT 10
hi tom the dog has been running round 2 bends either over 220 or 270 mt race the dog was rough and underweight when I got him 3 days ago . He's been wormed fleas and getting good feed and Being built back up . He flys the lids and doing good times even When he was in a poor state . Tom I was trying to explain is that I don't want to give him to much work then he starts missing the lids thankx Donna .
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Post by Tom Meulman on Mar 7, 2017 3:16:18 GMT 10
hi tom the dog has been running round 2 bends either over 220 or 270 mt race the dog was rough and underweight when I got him 3 days ago . He's been wormed fleas and getting good feed and Being built back up . He flys the lids and doing good times even When he was in a poor state . Tom I was trying to explain is that I don't want to give him to much work then he starts missing the lids thankx Donna . Thanks for the clarification Donna. Under those circumstances the program you have outlined should certainly freshen the dog and maintain sufficient fitness to resume racing without any problems. Cheers, Tom
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Post by james on May 18, 2017 22:06:38 GMT 10
hi tom I have been training a dog for the last two months and at the beginning of his training he was very quick early and fade in the last section of the trial over 400 metres now 2 months later he is 3 lengths slower early but comes home 3 lengths stronger in his last section over the 400 hundred metres why do you think he has lost his early pace could he be injured, I don't think he is tired as he is jumping out of his skin and also his trials are showing me he is getting stronger. How do I get the dog to keep his early pace and keep his last section trial time as he has improved 3 lengths
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Post by Tom Meulman on May 20, 2017 6:02:02 GMT 10
Hi James,
It's certainly not unusual for that to happen, as it commonly occurs to greyhounds that are trained for a longer distance than what their physical makeup allows, and the simple explanation is that there is only so much energy that can be stored by the dogs structural system, and then both the training and the mental state of the dog governs whether that energy is used early in its trained for physical effort or at the end of its effort.
However having said that, yes there are certainly other reasons for a loss of early speed, and as you have said low grade muscle injuries can certainly cause this to occur. In particularly those that cause the muscle tissue to overtighten or to become "overtrained" which then slowly loosen and stretch out as the dog is running to the extent that towards the end of the run it can stretch out a bit more comfortable and therefore increase its speed. The answer here is massage and more massage accompanied by stretching physio.
The other reason for loss of early pace is one that I mentioned earlier which is its mental state at the start of its physical effort. In other words if the dog is super keen and overexcited to start running it will throw everything its got into its early effort, and then run out of energy before it gets to the finish line. Then when that wears off to a certain extent after a couple of months of training, and while the dog will still be keen to get running, that crazy "give it everything you've got" will not be there anymore. You can to some extent counter this by giving the dog a couple of shorter trials, and/or a couple of runs up a 300 metre straight track, mixing up the training methods and training venues and thereby freshen up its attitude.
You can also, if circumstances allow, take advantage of this whole situation providing the loss of early pace is caused by attitude and not low grade injuries, and that is to keep the dog on the lead for the whole week between say running in a semifinal and the final. If the dog is as fit as it can possibly be, "bottling it up" by keeping it on the lead for the week and giving it a massage everyday except for the last two days prior to the final will not cause any great loss of fitness, and providing it doesn't fluf the start by being overkeen, it can certainly make the difference between winning in a photo finnish and getting beat in a photo finish.
Cheers, Tom
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